Nara, 13 October. I chose to research modern Japanese architecture in part because of my fascination with their high level of craft when building with natural materials in an era in which other developed nations have shifted away from such materials and processes, and toward synthetics and factory production. In my Patterson grant proposal, I suggested that this is partially a result of centuries of Shinto and Buddhist tradition. Few other sites could have demonstrated this connection so clearly as temples, shrines and other buildings in Nara Park. First, they represent a wide range of uses of traditional building materials, such as thatch, bark, paper and bamboo. We see these materials every day… but we’re not used to seeing them on buildings, at least not in an unprocessed form, and especially not buildings that are presently occupied by quotidian functions such as shops and cafes. For example, a small restaurant building had siding made of tree bark and interior partitions made of a thick but translucent paper. In addition, many of the buildings used for ritual have been rebuilt numerous times – many as frequently as every 20 years. This practice of reconstruction comes up when I read about many different buildings; though not commonplace, it is not exactly rare. I expect that it helps to keep the older construction skills and knowledge alive.
I spent my first day in Japan touring through Nara and admiring these amazing structures. Worshipers and tourists are not the only admirers, though: huge herds of deer flock in Nara Park, chasing tourists and each other. They are considered to be holy, and have been living side by side with local residents for centuries. Vendors dot the park selling deer crackers, but a word of warning should you ever be tempted: don’t expect the dominant males to let you off easy. We saw many a scampering tourist and screaming baby that resulted from bizarre and unpredictable deer behavior.
Speaking of bizarre behavior, as we neared the end of our park tour, a group of school children swarmed around, pushed their notebooks towards us and repeatedly demanded us to “sign here!” on the blue cardstock cover. I think I can speak for Sayo as well when I say that neither of us have ever given so many autographs in one sitting. What they were up to we won’t likely ever know… my five minutes of fame may be gone, but my messy scrawl will live on through a large group of giggly nine-year-olds.
Transport count: 2 buses and a heck of a lot of walking
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